I’ll be going over the conversion of a 2006 Suzuki RMX250. A near-stock motocross bike it’s an enduro and cross country bike I shall be going over the various mods in no particular order. I will list the top mods towards the end of the video in hard conditions. Suzuki RMX250 this basic device has helped me get out of tricky spots such as getting stuck in bogs or struggling to get up a climb. These straps are easily found from various manufacturers and can probably be made from a piece of rope on a motocross course.
Typically don’t come into contact with bushes and trees on the regular when riding. I generally need as much room as I can get and often we end up riding. One thing that stands out between enduro motocross bikes is their clutch controls. Motorcross being able named arose hydraulic growing up solely on cable. I find the hydraulic clutch pipe feel to be a little odd. There’s no getting away from the fact a light pole is really nice. Micromanaging a clutch lever on dirt bikes is a learning technique and crucial. To keep the engine lit I’ve modified my clutch tails smoothly as possible. Using a combination of modifications a CNC machine basket a honda ratio lever and a low friction cable. The basket is made by talon and is a vast improvement over the OEM cheese like the performance or yems basket notch. It prevents the plates from sliding move early the Honda pull ratio is reduced compared to Suzuki’s.
Although I would normally need about 10 liters for three hours I’ve done longer races such as four-six and twelve hours. Having a large tank as it being the IMS tank now. The bike holds just 14 liters and is quite visibly larger that does not get in the way. It doesn’t quite fit the bike right and you will feel the weight when it is full. Additionally there is no reserved tap so caution is required. I’ve marked out five and ten-liter lines on the tank I can check the never when stopped. I’ve also added an inline filter as the tap does not have one built-in the dirt. It could easily get into the tank at the track and trap open the carburetors float needle.
The wheels and all tires have been changed to suit and duro better on the front. I’ve ended up using a golden tire gt2 one six double a fatty tire it does well in all-terrain. I’ve used it in it’s not quite as good as a Dunlop MX 3s in grass and tracks but it’s better everywhere in the rear. I have two wheels the original 19-inch wheel with a Michelin AC 10 tire which I use for practice. As a spare at races I also have an 18-inch wheel for racing. I’ve experimented with tires for this 18-inch wheel and not set it on anything yet. Mitos xt 75 falls are grey and muddy and soft tracks due to its thin sidewalls.
It is compliant over bumps however they’re all fall over hardpack and rocks. Dunlop MX 3 are better in hardpack and rocks but all fall over bumps and roofs due to state sidewalls are both ends of the bike. I used the tubeless system with Ceylon it’s great for slow-moving hard tracks as you can drop the pressures below. What’s possible with tubes however due to many punctures on the rear in recent races and random malfunctions on the front.
I’ve not experimented much in this department I put a large disc on the front as I found the performance inadequate for one thing operation. We’re centered pads and a stock Rosa as for the pads I’ve experimented with scented pads from SBS EVC and gold friend EBC are more expensive. As far as I can tell as bearson golfer and work for me. I pick whichever is cheapest I’ve also tried EB C carbon ceramics and they’re good when in the dry. They have a good feel and seems to be as powerful as censored pads. I do not find they last all that long in wet and gritty conditions and don’t perform well in the way.
Anyways our stock the bike has 13 by 50 tooth caring aluminum rear sprocket and narrow gaps between the gears. After experimenting with 48 49 and 52 sprockets I found a 49 tooth rear to be a good compromise. A 48 tooth sprocket was good on the open fire roads unfortunately it required too much clutch slipping and slow technical writing. I’m a fan of the rfx HCS Pro steel rear sprockets. Although they’re heavier than aluminum they last a lot longer and are similarly priced a change. I made to cope with a considerably wet and muddy Britain is to forego. The front sprocket cover with a cover on despite having large openings it still packs up quickly and keeps your chain and sprocket continuously dragging through the mud.
I modified my suspension in two stages. First they use the race text spring rate calculator to replace the springs in the force and shocks suited to my weight and use that made. The bike ride somewhat better wrists weren’t getting shattered and the rear wasn’t pinging off. Everything anymore what made a real difference was getting two suspension rear valve for enduro by a local workshop. It truly was a nine-day change now when going through rough sections I am able to hold a line better. If there is a warm modification I recommend the highest. This getting their suspension revolved the expansion pipe that the previous owner put on. The pipe to-bear steel it looks bling when polished up but easily rusted. It had a reasonable spread of power but really made the bike run.
I had read that the FMF gnarly pipe is the king of enduro when it comes to expansion pipes when I first tried it I can see why it got that reputation has plenty of low-end talks spreading to the mid-range. Unfortunately the top end power and overrun unnoticeably reduced but for what I used the buy for it is a good trade-off the bike. Originally came with a DEP silencer I haven’t felt the need to replace it. I just replaced the packing regularly the engine on this bike has not been modified in terms of performance. I’ve only added an extra turn to the power of our preload spring replated the cylinder and added a flywheel weigh. The flywheel weight I added was a 10-ounce one which is the heaviest available from steady off-road. It requires spacing out the flywheel cover which causes the gear lever to rub sometimes.
The change of this mode is quite significant a lot less stalling and the gained ability to the tractor and low revs really help in technical slow. Apparently it helps with traction everywhere but I can say I dunno it softens the hits of the bike and makes it easier to race. I’ve added a V force three Reed block which is supposed to improve performs all over the rev range. Honestly, I could not tell the difference it makes
